There are many different ways to get to Machu Picchu:
- The most popular way is by train. There are PeruRail , and IncaRai, It costs about the same. But it's relatively quick and convenient: many don't even stay overnight; they'll go there in the morning, run around Machu Picchu, and then straight back.
- Cheaper, but much more troublesome: by bus to Hidroelectrica station, then just 10 kilometers on foot along railroad ties, and you're there. It's only $20 one way, but it takes a whole day: seven hours by bus, then a three-hour walk.
- Hiking the classic Inca Trail. The downside is that you can't hike it on your own; you must join a group with local porters. It's expensive (starting at $1,000 per person), and I just don't like the idea of porters running ahead with heavy backpacks to set up camp before I arrive. I'm not quite ready for the role of a white sahib yet...
- And the route that Natasha and I chose: hiking theSalkantay Trek. The advantage is that you can hike on your own or with guides, spend the night in the tent, or rent rooms along the way... We hiked on our own and chose the most common option: four days of walking, three overnight stays along the way, arriving at Machu Picchu on the fourth day, and spending the night there. Looking at the map, I was afraid that a significant portion of the route would be along the sides of roads, but that's not the case: almost the entire route follows scenic trails. If you want to cheat, you can cut corners—on the first day, ride directly to Lake Humantay instead of the trailhead, and on the third and fourth days, you can take a minibus or taxi for part of the way. But we completed the entire route with flying colors.
Weather
In Peru, there are two seasons: dry: May - October, and rainy: November - April.
We went in October, at the end of the dry season. Despite this, it rained every afternoon, and in Machu Picchu, it rained almost constantly. You need to be prepared for this and keep raincoats handy at all times.
Route and overnight stays
You have to understand that everything here is quite modest; a hot shower is a luxury 🙂. I liked all the accommodations and recommend them. In all three places, we had problems with electricity: during our first overnight stay, the power in the outlets simply went out after dark, even though the lamps were working (it turned out the outlets were powered by solar panels). In the other two places, the power went out for several hours in the entire village. So the first thing you need to do upon arrival is charge your phones.
All links lead to Booking.com. As it turned out, it wasn't necessary to book in advance (we went during the "low season").
- Soraypampa Hostel (Soraypampa) is not a hotel, but a very basic shelter. All the accommodations there are pretty much the same, because Soraypampa isn't a residential village, but a point where the road ends. We had a small, unheated hut, but with warm blankets, so we didn't get too cold at night. The advantage of our shelter is that it's located right on the trail to Humantay Lake, so you don't have to waste time walking to the lake's trailhead. They also helped with transportation, which is convenient. Breakfast and dinner are available for an extra fee.
- Salkantay Hostel Chaullay — It already feels like a real hotel, there was even a hot shower in the room 😀 Nice place with a wonderful view. Breakfast is included in the price.
- Lia B&B Lucmabamba — The most comfortable place we stayed. Situated on a coffee plantation. Freddy (the owner/manager of the hotel) gave us a fascinating tour of the plantation, showing us all the stages coffee goes through, from berry picking to brewing. Hot showers, breakfast, and dinner are included in the room.
In the city of Machu Picchu we spent the night in a hotel Panorama B&B. It's a nice, comfortable place, although quite expensive (the most expensive on our entire trip). But Machu Picchu is a completely touristy place, and everything there is much more expensive than elsewhere in Peru.
